Amanda's Alaskan Adventure

One girl, one big journey

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Monday, September 28th

Ugh


Not sure how much sense this will make, I've been doing some very tedious work starting at a computer screen all day and my eyes are about toast.

So, didn't make it to the hunting class, didn't get out of work early enough on Friday to pick up the packet I needed to to get the homework done b4 class. Oh well.

As of yesterday I was going to have to get a different hotel room cuz my reservation here only went till today, and they were booked full.. found out when I went to check out this morning (after I loaded up my truck) that they managed to extend me till I can move into my apartment. Wish they would have let me know when they made that little deal work instead of waiting for me to come down. But at least I have a place to stay for the next couple weeks.

Of the places overseas that I've been, this has the least amount of time difference, but its still weird watching the race at 9AM. And the Packer game wasn't even on, *sigh*.

Might be able to think of more to say when my eyes can focus on the screen again.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.28.09 @ 07:03 PM AKDT [link]


Thursday, September 24th

Snow and Cold


So, the weather man was actually right, it did snow a bit yesterday. Just enough to leave a couple of flakes on my truck when I woke up in the morning, and there was some mixed with a bit of rain later in the morning.

This morning it was in the low 20s, which led to a spiel on how we *have* to wear a jacket and fleece cap and gloves and how we have to not wear hot weather boots any more after 1 October. Of course, by the afternoon there was no point in wearing any of that stuff.

Yesterday I also had to go to a newcomer's briefing. And instead of having 20 different organizations talking at a room of sleepy people, they only had the really important organizations talk at us, and then had displays and representatives set up for the rest of them, so we could peruse them at our leisure. The outdoor rec table had some pamphlets on "Becoming an Outdoors-Woman". Apparently this organization started out in Wisconsin in response to the fact that not many women were getting involved in outdoors activities due to not having a comfortable learning environment. And it has since spread across the country.

So, according to their http://www.sf.adfg.state.ak.us/region3/programs/bow/index.cfm/FA/about.home I just missed a couple of workshops, though there is a mini-workshop this weekend on hunter's ed, I might see if I can still get into that one. Especially since all equipment (read: weapons and ammo) is provided.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.24.09 @ 07:01 PM AKDT [link]


Monday, September 21st

First day of work


Today was my first day of actually pretending to work. I say pretending, because until some higher ups process some paperwork, there's a very limited amount of stuff that I can do. I managed to answer the phone a couple of times, and tried to politely explain to someone why his idea for taking a computer out of the office wouldn't work unless he did some extra work first, and that was about it.

Oh, I did a little bit of work, but I had to keep waiting on another person to keep entering passwords. I hate not having admin privileges.

And there was a limited amount that I could even shadow other people on account of almost everyone in my office was in a class, and will be all week. This could be interesting - people just *love* having the person answering the phone telling them that they can't help them, and all of the people that can won't be around until next week. *shakes head*

I'm sure it'll get better.
Amanda on 09.21.09 @ 06:27 PM AKDT [link]


Sunday, September 20th

I gots a home


Well, not quite yet. I'll be able to move in about a month. But, I at least managed to get a place that wasn't all scary looking. 1 BR, 900 sq ft, I pay electric for about 1k/mo. My housing allowance is 1500, so that's not too bad.

Elsewheres, I had a bunch of online classes I had to take to be considered qualified to do my job. Turns out I already took half of them, so I managed to run through them fairly quickly. So, I can now be sent off to take some other class. And apparently they might have to send me to Hawaii for that one. Oh darn. And it would be in November or December too. That's gonna be rough. ;) But, I should maybe hopefully actually be able to start doing my job this week. Possibly.

According to The Weather Channel its supposed to snow on Wednesday. Should be interesting to see how many people can't remember how to drive in the stuff. But looking at the temps it doesn't look like it will stick around for too long. Still could suck if I have to run in it during PT in the morning though. Oh well.
Amanda on 09.20.09 @ 07:22 PM AKDT [link]


Wednesday, September 16th

Alaskan Vehicles


I knew before I came up here that I was going to need to get my truck "winterized". Granted, I'm from the northern US, but "winterization" is not usually too much of a big deal, beyond making sure your battery is good and you don't have really slick tires. Up here, its a tad more involved.

First, we have the engine block heater. Then a battery blanket. Oil pan heater. Making sure the antifreeze is rated to -60, and you have de-icing windshield wiper fluid. Sealing the underside of the vehicle (which should probly be done anywhere it snows). And the cord sticking out the front of the vehicle to plug in the heaters.

The cheapest place to get all of this done is the Car Care Center on post. Which, being the cheapest place, and a whole bunch of people getting back from deployment, and this is the end of the major PCS (people moving around the Army) season, and people who got here earlier but have been procrastinating, they're a little booked up. Until the middle of December. Don't think I can wait that long.

So, I had to bite the bullet and go off post. I was warned ahead of time that it would cost about twice as much, but I'd rather have that than a dead truck. So, I managed to get that done this morning. When asked, I said that I did not have an engine block heater. When I went back a few hours to pick up my truck, they told me that I did, saving me about $200.

Yay for magically appearing equipment. And bonus points for an honest mechanic - I'd have never known the difference.

Speaking of equipment...

Yesterday I got my stuff specific to here... Everyone else got at least a shopping cart full, sometimes two, of stuff. I filled up one rucksack. Granted, I still have a ton of stuff from New York, but I was expecting a little more. Even the guys issuing it were a little confused. But, because of the mission of this unit, apparently I don't need all that stuff - fine by me, less I have to keep track of.

So, I'm really close to getting a place to live. The place I really want is taking a while to do the paperwork. From what I've heard, that's about normal here - things move a little more slowly. Everyone's really friendly and helpful and everything, there's just not a sense of urgency/importance/time-sensitivity. Which I wouldn't mind too much except that I have a timeline that I at least need to have a signed lease by. *sigh* I hate having to bug people.

So, I also had to get an emissions test. Had to pay for the stupid thing and everything. And never having gotten one, I though that the emissions your vehicle puts out would actually be tested. Oh no, they just hooked up to the computer to see if the computer thought everything was working. Apparently as long as each component tests good, your vehicle can't possibly be spitting out anything evil. *shakes head*

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.16.09 @ 04:29 PM AKDT [link]


Sunday, September 13th

Site Changes


I'm playing with the site a little bit... over on the right you should see some pictures, they are the latest things that I have uploaded to my DeviantArt page (my art gallery).

Over on that page I'm finally sorting through the pictures from my trip so far, and posting some of the better ones. On that website (if you create an account - its free if you don't want some of the spiffy extras) you can post comments, favorite works, stuff like that. Please go check it out!

Edit:

I also added the random quote generator, also on the right hand side.

Also stumbled upon this lovely slide show:

Mother Nature vs. Cars

In my opinion, the first few are the best. Wish I had the picture from Korea (not long before I got there) during monsoon season where a car was parked, the area got flooded, and a dumpster floated over above the car, and when the water receded the dumpster was still on the car. Priceless.
Amanda on 09.13.09 @ 05:19 PM AKDT [link]


Friday, September 11th

The New Adventure...


So, I've been here for a few days, and they have been busy. I've been inprocessing the installation (letting all of the various agencies know that I am here, and making sure they take care of me), and have poked my head in at my new unit so that they know that I am really here now (they've known I've been coming since January) and talking with them, so that they can decide what exactly they're going to do with me.

In addition to the scheduled stuff, there's the stuff that I have to take care of on my own, like finding a place to live. Not usually terribly difficult, but one of the larger units on base just returned from deployment, so the housing market just got flooded with customers, so there's not much that is open until next month. I just tossed my name in the hat at one place, and am hoping that I get good news tomorrow on that.

Also, I had a little bit of an adventure just getting a temporary place to stay with all of the redeployments, the post temporary lodging facility was pretty much booked up, so for a couple of days I didn't know if I would have a place to stay the next day. Luckily, after a couple of days of that I managed to get booked for the full time that I'm authorized to stay here, and if i do manage to get the apartment that I'm looking at, then I will be authorized to stay here a little longer to cover the time until I can move, and the redeployments (and bookings for this place) will hopefully have slowed down to where I can stay here, not have to find another hotel.

That is the hope, at least.

The other challenge is getting done what needs to be done to make sure my truck doesn't freeze over the winter - getting engine block heater, battery blanket, etc. The place on post is booked up for a couple of months, and places off post charge a lot more... looks like I might just have to pony up the extra bucks to get it done off post. Ugh. But at least it will get done before my truck decides it hates me because I can't plug it in at night.

In other news...

Although it sometimes gets a little confused, my GPS is definitely one of the greatest things I could have ever gotten. Because of it I managed to find the local Wal-Mart (very important) and the local Barnes & Noble (even more important). And, even if I just start driving randomly, I can always find my way back to post. It is so nice to not have to worry about getting lost, and not trying to read a map while driving.

Weather so far has been frosty overnight/early morning, warming up into the 60's by afternoon. I've been told that this is Indian Summer. One of the people inprocessing with me is being very negative about the entire idea of cold. Most of the other ones are at least able to find something that might be good - one guy has a snowboard on the way, another was talking about the joys of snowmobiling, stuff like that.

Although, several people who have spent at least one winter have brought up the fact that since it is such an extreme, dry, cold, one cannot even make a proper snowball unless you use your hands to melt the outside, allowing the snow to actually stick. Which could get kindof annoying, especially for kids - my sponsor was talking about how her daughter was rather upset by the uncooperative nature of the snow. That will definitely be different.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.11.09 @ 06:28 PM AKDT [link]


Tuesday, September 8th

I'm There!


Alrighty, a whole lot has happened since my last post, so this could get long. If I can remember half of it.

So, Friday morning I went to go get a couple of last-minute things that I would need on the ferry (like a towel I could actually fit into my carry-on, etc) and was confused by how busy everything was, until I remembered it was a holiday weekend, so people would actually be off work. Amazing how those holidays can sneak up on you when you're not looking.

After navigating a strange Wal-Mart, gassing up the truck, and giving it a brief bath (still tons of bugs stuck to the front), I headed to the port, got my ticket, and got my truck staged to get loaded onto the ferry. While sitting in line, it got sniffed by the dogs... why I had to pay an extra $5 when I checked in. "Security fee". Oi.



Once on board, I headed up into passenger territory - can't be on the car deck while vessel underway - and started poking around / staking my claim for a place to sleep. On this particular vessel, there were a couple forward observation decks, dining room, snack bar, several bathrooms, shower facilities, and (my place to sleep) the solarium. The solarium being a place on the rear of the vessel on the very top that has a windowed overhang, and is open on the rear. On the photo above it is where some people are standing, you can't really see the overhang part though. It is also one of the areas where people can pitch tents on the deck.

After playing the time honored game of hurry up and wait, we were finally underway.



As it was getting on to be evening by that point, nothing else significant happened. However, I was pleased to find out that the Solarium is equipped with heat lamps, making it much more comfortable when the wind was whipping around, as happened a lot that night. In fact, we woke up to a quite rainy morning. Which was bad for the people with the not-so-watertight tent.



Supposedly, the weather conditions were calmer than if it was sunny. I really couldn't tell you. At this point I need to point out the fact that most of the journey took place in what is called the Inside Passage, meaning that we were in between the mainland and some islands offshore. Those islands sheltered us from being beat up by the open ocean. Except for at a couple of places. I've never had issues with motion sickness, but I've also never been in anything much larger than a rowboat. Let's just say that the first (and longest) exposure to open water kicked my butt.

Anywho, after returning to the inside passage, the sun came back out. This was also a prime spot for whale watching. Unfortunately, because we couldn't really stop and putz around to watch the whales, it was hard to get decent pictures.

For example, here's a blow from a humpback:



And here's the whale itself:



Yes, exciting pictures, I know.

The next day, we saw lots of cool mountains, and even a couple of glaciers.



And then, yesterday morning, I unloaded in Haines, AK and started driving again. After not very long, I crossed into BC, Canada. Then a while after that, I hit the Yukon. The bit of Canada that I had to drive was AWESOME scenery. Especially with the leafy trees turning colors, and the needley ones staying green, there were so many different colors on the mountainsides and valleys, it was absolutely gorgeous. Every corner I went around I gasped, it was so gorgeous. Unfortunately there were so many corners I couldn't really take many pictures, and this one got a bit washed out.



The roads started off OK, then gradually started getting worse. Most of the heaves/potholes/other had been patched over, so there wasn't too much that was sharp that would bust a tire, but it still made for a quite interesting ride. Just as I thought I was getting the hang of those things, I made it back into Alaska, and the roads got better - just a couple rough patches here and there.

Despite the several signs proclaiming reindeer crossing, the only wildlife I encountered (other than birds and insects) was a fox.



If you really want to know what is going on, you're gonna have to ask. Odds are, you don't want to know.

It was a bit too much driving for one night, so I got a room, and took off again this morning. There was a little tiny patch of rain, and I even managed to see a rainbow.



I made it to post in the early afternoon, got signed in, got a room for the night, and got my schedule for tomorrow.

Since I had a bit of time before the room was ready, I killed time by poking my head in with my new unit. Met a couple of people, including the First Sergeant. Turns out I worked with him in Korea. *sings* "Its a small Army after all...."

I think that about covers it.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.08.09 @ 10:22 PM AKDT [link]


Friday, September 4th

Taking a Break


So, I finally get to take a break from driving. I'm about to hitch a ferry up to AK, and then continue my driving from there. So, I'm going to be off the net for a few days.

Feel free to talk amongst yourselves...

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.04.09 @ 12:33 PM AKDT [link]


Thursday, September 3rd

Day 5 - Washington, pt 2


Well folks, I have now made it to my port town... and don't leave until tomorrow afternoon. Always figures, as long as you leave time for Murphy, he leaves you alone, and he has certainly left me alone, so far. (yes, I probly jinxed it by saying that, but I couldn't help it)

So, this morning I continued my driving across the state of Washington. Did you know that there is an area where they actually have signs posted as to what crops are in the fields? I would say that I now feel smarter about ag, except for the fact that I couldn't see half the signs until I was past them, and the crops were too far away for me to identify anything except the general color. Except for corn, I can identify that. Everything else was just either green or tan, near as I could tell.

Came across another lovely scenic overlook, this time over the Columbia River.



I actually got to drive over the bridge pictured this time. And it had a real nice sharp corner right in front of it, and then on the other side was a real nice climb, of the type where they added a third lane so that all the loaded down tractor trailers could get out of the way. Luckily not quite enough to bug my ears. That came later.

Also, while at this outlook, I noticed a wind farm. Quite frankly, given what I've seen of wind in this area over the last couple of days, I'm surprised that I haven't seen more. Anywho, this particular one was way across the river, up into the hills, way far away.



Yay zoom. Still looks like a bunch of anorexic pinwheels stuck in a pile of dirt, though.

After a bit more, I finally came across my last mountain pass. And, of course, this being Washington State, that was when it decided to rain.



Looked awesome, especially with the fog weaving its way through the peaks, and the rain itself wasn't enough to mess with road conditions or visibility. And, after dropping to a more civilized altitude, the sun came back out.

After that, I hit Seattle, and wound my way up the coast. The traffic hasn't been too bad, but definitely heavier than I've been seeing roaming the countryside.

So, after getting my hotel for the night, I went to go get something to eat. Turns out that the bartender/server at the place I went to used to work at the Chili's in Fairbanks. So he said that if I ever eat there, to let them know that Brian that moved to Washington said Hi. How's that for serendipity?

Total trip stats: 2196 miles, 35 hours 47 minutes, moving time. If you add info from New York, it would be about 3000 miles, 50 hours moving time. And I've still got driving to go.

-A
Amanda on 09.03.09 @ 09:44 PM AKDT [link]


Wednesday, September 2nd

Day 4 - Montana Pt 2, Idaho, Washington Pt 1


So, we start off bright and early somewhere in Montana... and find out that not an hour later, even before I have to take my first bathroom break, I'm crossing the continental divide. According to the sign I went under, my elevation at that point was about 6300 ft. A few miles of coasting downhill at 65 mph, occasionally killing overdrive, I landed in Butte, Montana. Where I stopped for gas was about 5100 ft. I'm amazed my ears weren't hurting any more than they were, I had to pop them enough times. I have no problems going up, can't stand going back down.

So, when I stopped for gas, I looked back, and this is what I crossed:



I'm not quite sure where I crossed, but it was somewhere in there.

While at the same gas station, I noticed another letter in a hill:



Again, this was Butte, so I'm not sure what the M is for.

Anywho, not many more pictures taken because of the hilly and windy roads, with traffic and destruction going on. But I did manage to catch this in my side mirror:



That was fairly typical of what I was driving through. Not fun when you don't know the road.

Random thing I noticed throughout the day: I-90 crosses the Clark Fork (river) at least 13 times. Yes, I counted. Yesterday I crossed the Little Big Horn 3 times, that I know of.

When I got to Missoula, I found another letter:



Gee, I feel like I'm playing Scrabble. If only I had some vowels...

So, I got through Montana in one piece... then Idaho... even though it was just as wind-ey as Montana, luckily that didn't last for too long. Finally flattened out a bit when I hit eastern Washington. Which is where I am now. And, I finally managed to get a room with a view:



Complete with people partying outside my window. *sigh*

So, hopefully, tomorrow or Friday morning I will have some time to give my truck a bath. I've got 3000 miles worth of insects squashed onto my grille. Ew.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.02.09 @ 08:37 PM AKDT [link]


Tuesday, September 1st

Day 3 - Wyoming, Montana Part I


And another joyous day of driving is complete. Finished the last little chunk of SD, then headed into Wyoming. Didn't have to drive through there for too far. Though the scenery was quite pretty, and I was glad to start seeing real trees again. And I saw more of the pink asphalt, that I finally managed to get a picture where you can kinda tell that it is pink.



And I did not alter the image, I swear.

Also in Wyoming, after cresting a hill, I got my first peek at some mountains.



Really far away still, but I could just barely see them.

Then, as I was getting closer to Montana, the skies started getting darker...



... and I had the first little bit of rain the entire trip. It wasn't too hard, and cleaned some of the smaller bugs off my windshield. But it soon cleared back up and the sunny skies resumed. And so did the bugs.

Random giant "C" sitting in a hillside in Montana... I think the town it was near started with a C, can't remember the name though... still fairly random looking though. I mean, not every town puts a giant initial in view of the Interstate...



And, further along, ran across the Yellowstone river... several times, but this was the only time I managed to take a picture. All the other times I was working on driving around a corner, or not running into another vehicle, or some other such thing that was more important than using a camera.



Like yesterday, I've got a bunch of other pics that are neat, but I need to sort through, chop up, etc. There were also a lot of times that I wish I could have gotten a picture, but I was busy with not running into the back of a semi that was going much slower than me while rounding a curve @ 70mph while going down a rather steep decline where I could barely see the road ahead of me. How dare they put those types of roads where all the really good views are! :p

Actually went through a couple of spots where you could see fallen rocks right next to the road... I would have moved a little farther from the rock wall, but I was doing the avoid hitting other vehicles thing again, and people kept passing me. Also some spots where there were areas to pull off and chain/de-chain. I'm definitely glad I'm not trying to drive some of these roads in the winter, especially as windy as they are - not fun getting blown around when the roads are good, much less when they're not good. But, if it were later in the year, I would have probably chosen to ship my truck and fly myself.

So, I'm now deep in Montana, though I've still got a whole lot of state to go. Joy.

Edit:
Today's miles: 494 in 7.5 moving hours. And a range of at least 2000 feet in altitude. My ears are not happy with me.

-Amanda
Amanda on 09.01.09 @ 08:01 PM AKDT [link]